Eco fashion in Melbourne: Part II
Del Forte Denim @ “Walk the Talk†eco-fashion night by monstro
I was curious about the obstacles Australian designers would face, such as purchasing organic fabrics, consumer demand and pricing. In addition I was interested if educational institutions were preparing students or educating them rather, about the environment and its links to the fashion industry. This is what Lorraine had to say.
As a designer yourself, what obstacles do you think Australian designers will face in Australia in terms of eco fashion?
The usual Australian obstacles apply; isolation (cost of imports), expensive labour costs (for ethical local production), political implications and lack of consumer education in Eco agendas (as already stated, environment low on political agenda), competitive market place (the fashion market is currently dominated by large retailers and cheap overseas imports).
It will take brave designers who can demonstrate that fashion can be both stylish and sustainable. Design is the key, I’ll say it again, GOOD DESIGN! It has to be at a competitive price point too, and therein lies the sticking point. Most materials would have to be shipped from the USA, India and China which all add to the cost as organic fabric is not available here yet at a competitive price. We’re able to source hemp and organic cotton here, but the cost per metre can make it prohibitive. Then factor in the cost of local production on top of that and you’re way off in terms of competitiveness.
We need a ‘movement’, one ‘lone’ designer can’t start a trend or change consumer mentality, it’s a huge struggle if the product doesn’t compete in the market on every level, so, a huge cultural shift would be helpful!
My research leads me to believe that a good niche is the luxury market, aimed at the conscious, educated, ‘champagne socialist’ group, whom are more than likely to be middle aged. There’s probably some marketing buzzword for this group, but, I’m ignorant to marketing speak! As I said, it can’t be consumed so easily by the masses at this point as the costs are prohibitive. This really is something that upsets me, as I’d rather be designing for a wider market, which would affect greater change and have more impact environmentally, and also give me the chance to be more experimental and youthful in terms of design. I’m also against the idea eco fashion being seen as ‘luxury product’. In truth though, it’s where it sits at the moment due to its price point. You’ll pay up to $40 for an organic cotton baby singlet compared to a pack of six conventional for $10 in Target, you have your work cut out for you if you want to start a revolution!
When you were at design school was eco fashion and sustainability covered?
No, not at all. My lecturers were also often uninformed about current production practices and political implications of practices in the fashion industry which I found very frustrating. I was often quizzing and arguing with my teachers! The school used to take part in the Sustainable Living Festival and one of the second year projects was to design something sustainable, this got scrapped. The reason? Well the head of design told me the students hated it and weren’t interested (in my experience totally true, no one gave a rats about those issues in my class, they just want to make pretty dresses! but then I am much older than they are!) and that the school didn’t have enough information or experience in this area to guide or help them. I believe RMIT covers this slightly better than my school did.
And finally where would you like to see Melbourne in the way of eco-fashion?
I’d like to be part of a group of designers that could get together and share resources and information, stage runway shows and exhibitions and help promote education in the field of sustainable design and fashion. I’m realistic in that although I’d like to see big growth in this area I don’t see it happening on the high street with large retailers like it is in the UK though for quite some time. I’m still unsure about the thought of Sportsgirl selling a line of Eco t-shirts as I’d view it as a cynical marketing ploy, with them jumping on a trend bandwagon rather than a genuine commitment to sustainability or ethical production. This is confusing for consumers who may be misled into thinking that because these companies sell organic underwear they are ethical in all aspects of their business.
I’d like support, friends and allies that would help to keep my morale up. I often feel lonely and isolated in my studio and often feel like no one will really give a shit, so, yeah fellow designers/friends who feel the same would be nice! I’ve just found the Society For Responsible Design in Sydney so I plan to try and join in somehow!
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions Lorraine. You covered a lot of issues that Australia (and Melbourne) will face in the future in terms of eco fashion. It’s unfortunate to discover that Australia lags behind in eco fashion. However, with the power of the Internet, blogs and online media to educate the public, attitudes will begin to change. GOOD LUCK!
Jason is currently living and working in Japan. He produces handmade bags using recycled, organic and synthetic fibers. Visit his blog for a link to his online store.
Nov 22nd 2006
9:47 AM
Hello,
We wholesale organic cotton fabric knitted from certified Australian grown organic cotton.
ORGANIC COTTON ADVANTAGE
www.ocadvantage.com.au
Feb 6th 2007
4:10 PM
Hi - I am the Australian representative for Freeset Bags. Our company was set us to give women in Calcutta, India, the opportunity to get out of prostitution if they so desired. Generally as a sex worker you have no hope of another life because not only are you experiencing horrific levels of poverty you are uneducated & an untouchable socially! Most of our work is customised design so we can incorporate good design & we are wanting to find an Australian designer who will embrace our concepts & philosophy & start using our products. Can anyone point me in the direction of the right person or people to talk to???
Feb 16th 2007
1:39 PM
Hello. We wholesale organic cotton fabric, organic linen fabric and natural hemp fabrics, as well as sustainable natural fibre yarns. We also sell retail. We would love to hear from other suppliers and prospective customers, and always appreciate feedback. Thanks.
All Eco Pty Ltd
www.alleco.com.au
May 31st 2007
5:33 PM
If you are after stylish eco clothing go to www.bamboobody.com.au . The Bamboo Body range is made from sustainable bamboo fabric. The fabric is luxuriously soft, more breathable than cotton, moisture wicking and odour resistant..
The Bamboo Body range is perfect for layering and mixing and matching, and will take you from the office, to the gym, to Saturday night dinner, to a lazy Sunday morning.
Jun 15th 2007
11:21 PM
Please come and visit www.saravictoria.com.au we offer a selection of basics made from certified organic cotton a unique designer collection, and everything from sleepwear through to aprons. All fabrics are sustainable and or produced in an environment that supports the interests of fairtrade and preservation of the environment.
Jul 3rd 2007
2:57 PM
I agree that it is a struggle producing fashion garments from organic yarns and fabrics and thereis simply no energy behind the movement as yet. Great idea to start a movement locally, I’m in Tasmania and have a small studio on the east coast where I design and produce fashion clothing for women. Getting together with a bunch of other textile artists and designers to share resources is a good way to start the ball rolling.
At the moment I am changing over to using all organic products and sourcing fabrics and yarns locally and eventually overseas. Anyone interested in joining me send an email!
Cheers
Britt
Aug 9th 2007
2:13 PM
I am in the process of starting up a business making items for postnatal women and am passionate about using organic fabrics such as hemp, bamboo and cotton. I am based in Melbourne and am wondering of there is anyone out there who knows of suppliers in Victoria, and whether or not there is a group of other fashion designers who would be interested in meeting to share ideas.
Aug 23rd 2007
6:16 PM
i have been buying all my organic food etc for 9 years. now i am starting clothing and knitwear website.
i have been looking for suppliers every where on the web. for 3 months. only to find somebedy who sells organic fair trade alpaca and cotton yarns and fabric. just about to buy yarns and australian distributor found out i was buying direct. she stopped me doing wholesale business through supplier. i was so frustrated. the funny thing i’m a machine knitter looking for ne 1/20 to 2/40 yarns very fine. this lady only stocks 8 ply and small amount of 4 ply balls. i am not her competitor hand knitting shops are- i am a designer, see the delema i’m in with careing for the environment this lady does not sell what i need but she has prevented me from buying something she does not sell. if she was suddenly to go into selling cones of yarn it would cost me $150 for one jumper + production costs. this is more than i can take.
apparently she cares for the environement but not people. she is forcing me to by chemical prduction.
love to hear if any body haveing suppliers problems thanks
Sep 11th 2007
7:15 PM
Hey Guys, design is definitely the most important part - you totally still want to look cool and support the environment at the same time. Check out our new eco rad T Shirt site with edgy designs featuring important messages such as “Don’t F** with Nature” - we can only grow the industry in Australia with everyone’s support! Have a green day!
Sep 11th 2007
7:18 PM
Whoops! Forgot the website - doh! www.planet-truth.com
Sep 17th 2007
5:42 PM
hey there, great to read of like minded fashionistas who know it is cooler to care! All the big labels and stores in the UK and US are stocking great ethical gear, it’s taking a while for Australia to catch up! I have recently returned from UK and started an ethical clothing label, ethiCooL, in St Kilda. It’s great fair trade cotton bags, canvas tote’s, edun-live African cotton tee’s, NO sweatshop tee’s, great ethnic Indian scarves and smock tops, All very affordable & all original! The tee’s & bags are decorated with my own art work and slogans, inspired by travel, music and the way they impact on changing the world.. check them out at www.ethicool.com.au. I’m looking for prospective stores or outlets to stock the gear if anyone has any links??? cheers
Oct 5th 2007
4:38 PM
I have a store in Adelaide called The Purely Cotton Co, where we stock premium organic cotton products. Our range includes women’s fashion items, basics for men and women, children’s clothing, premium bedroom linen and towels and chemical free baby products.
I have found it extremely difficult to source stylish high quality organic fashions (I mainly deal in womens stuff), so if any aspiring designers would like to contact me please do so.
Thanks
Emily
Oct 5th 2007
4:39 PM
our website is www.thepurelycottonco.com
Oct 8th 2007
8:00 AM
I am a designer, manufacturer of women’s clothing and also have an organic range and am happy to supply any retail outlets. I have my studio in Tasmania on the east coast and travel interstate frequently so can bring a sample collection with me.
Please contact me if interested.
website: www.skewiffy.com
Nov 29th 2007
2:26 PM
I am intrugued by snippets of newspaper articles that sugeest the fashion giants of the world embracing green fashion. My concern is that they are making as little change as possible, declaring to the world that they are really green, but queitly concealing the areas of their business that demonstrate it to be not so.
I do admit that my knowledge is limited, but I know as much as the average consumer - and besides new green branding and crafty wording that sidesteps direct questions instead of meeting them head on, as they indeed would do if they had nothing to hide - what real evidence or proof do we go by? Do people just take their word for it?
How will a consumer that isn’t interested in comprehensively researching the history of each garment tell the real ethical fashion from the fake?
Dec 5th 2007
1:32 PM
Hi there everyone,
My partner has launched a stylish range under the lable of “Pure Pod”, all garment are made from sustainable bamboo, organic cotton, hemp & soy and we are manufacturing all our products in Australia. At present we have a fantastic and fashionable womens range, a mens range is about to be produced. We are being stocked in about 10 retail stockists around Australia and the interest over the past couple of months has been fantastic. Our website is currently under construction, but we welcome any retailers and general consumer enquiries and agree that the movement needs momentum. Please contact Kelli - kelli@podproductions.com.au for any questions.
Dec 5th 2007
1:45 PM
Oh I forgot our website address if people are interested _
Website - www.purepod.com.au
Dec 11th 2007
2:07 PM
Hi
We have just set up a weaving workshop in Tasmania. We are producing woollen fabric, worsted and woollens. All our fabric is woven on a Hattersley loom, a cast iron mechanical monster that was used in Scotland to produce Harris tweed for many years.
We would be very interested to hear from any designer who might be interested in using our fabric for their designs. We can make to order if required.
Dorothy Evans
Feb 21st 2008
1:19 AM
Hi All,
Thought I’d give anyone who’s interested a quick rundown on the eco-buzz in Japan. I have just returned from a trade show called Roomsroom where I was exhibiting my sustainable jewellery brand Utopian Creations. (Please contact me via our web site for information on becoming a stockist).
To my surprise eco fashion is almost non existent there and they dont really like dealing with foreigners, must be via an agent. This was a shock to the system and made it very difficult to sell our accessories. Much of our promotional and display equipment uses words like eco-friendly and recycled, and we found this was a turn off rather than an incentive. Thankfully we had an interpreter and she understood our position well but the boutiques and department stores just aren’t ready yet.
We did find an agent and I believe they will catch up, but it will be 5 or 10 years before sustainable fashion has any ware near the popularity it has here.
Glad to be home and see Australia taking a lead in eco fashion. I am running a workshop in the eco-village at Womadelaide this year under the banner ‘It’s not waste till it’s wasted’. If your attending come down and join in. We will be turning cleaned trash from the event into meaningfull jewellery and other items. Mobile Muster are helping out with some materials and they will have a collection bin for any old phones you have lying around.
Good luck to all
Ben Manning
Utopian Creations
www.utopiancreations.com.au
Feb 21st 2008
1:24 AM
Sorry, one other thing, they do know organic. If you are thinking of selling there push organic and hide recycled. The Japanese are crazy about purity and they understand organic means no chemicals.
Hope this helps
Ben Manning
Utopian Creations
Organic, sustainable, eco-friendly jewellery